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#SuzyNYFW:Michael Kors——大軍集結

MICHAEL KORS是世界知名的奢侈飾品和成衣設計師,以其命名的公司成立於1981年,MK包包產品涵蓋女士系列、男士系列、手袋、鞋履、配飾和禮品等。MICHAEL KORS始終傳遞華美、精緻而充滿自信的JET SET生活態度,MK 官網為消費者提供精緻與隨性相容,經典與摩登並蓄的奢侈生活方式體驗。

Michael Kors A/W17 collection hit all the right notes.

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In
this moment of transition and political confusion that has made New
York Fashion Week seem almost irrelevant, few designers have hit the
right note. But MK 高雄及MK did just that – and not only because a live
orchestra was telling us hopefully that Sweet Dreams Are Made Of
This .

The designer used all those clichés of tough and tender,
with solid camel tailoring set against bands of sparkling fringe, and
bare flesh facing off against winter cover-up. This was made more
meaningful – and modern – by a deliberate mix of work wear and party
pieces, rather than the traditional day-through-night presentation.

Three quarters of the show was played out in fifty shades of camel and grey.

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You
gotta have some glamour, said Kors backstage with his friend Blake
Lively who was wearing the designer s flower-smothered dress that seemed
to belong to a different – and sweeter – American era.

A faultless mix of what the
designer described as sharp tailoring, utilitarian hardware and
military strength came with more fanciful evening pieces in molten
metals and liquid lamé. That decoration kept a hint of the military from
daytime looks to evening wear.

Evening pieces in molten metals and liquid lamé.

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It was as though Kors had
perceived in advance the storms rolling over Washington DC and the new
administration and made this collection purposeful, rather than
escapist.

The collection was a faultless mix of sharp tailoring, utilitarian hardware and military strength.

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Three
quarters of the show, which included the men s collection, was played
out in fifty shades of camel and grey. Only towards the end did the
designer pour in wine red, mostly a very dark burgundy.

Towards the end, Kors introduced wine red, mostly a very dark burgundy.

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The rest of the day clothes
were as utilitarian as they could be when using the finest fabrics and
matching the colour of fur to the cloth. Even the high heeled shoes or
boots were made for walking – or perhaps striding – while slit skirts
were made for movement.

Ashley Graham models a slit skirt, made for movement.

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You
could tick off the wardrobe list: knits in camel, matching hose and
suede boots, the same concept in severe tweed or in a more playful
animal print fabric.

Michael Kors A/W17 collection hit all the right notes.

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Urban
luxury was another phrase that Kors used, meaning that the same uptown
looks were carried through to the evening outfits when the surfaces or
fringes sparkled.

With the demise of other uptown brands – whose
new designers are bringing them literally and metaphorically downtown,
in the case of Oscar de la Renta for example – the Michael Kors look
stands alone.

The show also featured the men s collection.

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But
far from trotting out the familiar off-to-the-Hamptons Waspy cashmere
and casual trousers, there was a meaty feel to this collection –
marshalling the fashion military in a city – and a country – facing a
tough moment in history.

 

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